Italian Wines to Try: Guest Post by Valter from Tourist by Chance

Many of you probably know Italian wine because of Chianti or Montepulciano, or even grape varieties like the Sangiovese. Holding the Italian flag high in recent years seems to be Prosecco. However, as I always tell travelers coming to Italy, there is more to this country than Rome, Florence, and Venice, and the same can be said about Italian wines.

I am neither a sommelier nor a wine connoisseur. I am a wine drinker and wine “enjoyer” (yes, I created a new word to explain my level of wine knowledge). This means I have a passion for wine, I know my tastes, I have a short list of favorites and I had put all together in a 10-week wine tasting course. Hence, I know pompous words used by the industry. Wine tasting has often been seen as a hobby for snobs and I can assure you it is not entirely the case, even though you can come across some “funny” people.

In essence, wine tasting heightens your senses, smells, and tastes you never thought you could experience from a grape! It is incredible that you can smell the aroma of peach in a white wine or vanilla in a red one. These aromas are there, and you do not need to be a snob to describe what it is you are tasting or smelling.

So throw away that “Wine for dummies” e-book, and sit down with a bottle of local wine, preferably on a rooftop garden overlooking the gulf of Naples, a B&B in Orvieto at sunset overlooking the green Umbrian countryside, or simply in your lounge room with friends. Do not let the world around you distract your wine tasting experience, be bold and risk a little more.

What is that your palate says to you? How do the aromas smell to you? Not what other people say, but what do YOU feel, taste, and smell? Wine taste is subjective, in my humble opinion, and a pleasure we all should enjoy.

Excuse the ramble on wine but it is a subject I have grown fond of. When Justyna and I decided to collaborate, I wanted to share with you MY favorite wines. I am not going to list the aromas or rules for drinking or what you should expect. This is a list of wines I am suggesting you try, see what you think of them yourself and get back to me! I would love to hear your feedback.

Reds:

• San Magno from Corte dei Papi (Cesanese Grape)
• Ziggurat from Carapace - Tenuta Castelbuono (Sagrantino Grape)
• Barolo from Pelassa (Nebbiolo Grape)

Cesanese del Piglio

A must-try when you are in Lazio is the Cesanese del Piglio. It’s a locally grown grape variety from the town of Anagni as well as four other surrounding towns in the comune of Frosinone.

My favorite producer in the area is Corte dei Papi. It’s a family owned winery that offers a great selection. Their San Magno is amazing with the local food of the Ciociaria and also the food of Lazio, or you can pair it with various types of cheeses. Their good all around wine is Colle Ticchio and can be enjoyed in winter and summer months.

Sagrantino

Another red that I have thoroughly enjoyed is the Sagrantino, found in the Montefalco area of Umbria (one of my favorite regions in Italy). This grape variety has been getting some recognition lately, but the Umbrianites (Umbrians? ...not important) have been enjoying this grape since the 1600s—now that is important!

I went to the awesome Carapace winery of the Lunelli family and enjoyed their amazing collection of reds. This is one of the largest producers of wine in Italy, so it is fairly different than a small family winery like Corte de Papi. Not only is their wine delicious but their winery is incredible, too!

Nebbiolo

This may be one of the only wine varieties I came across purely by chance. I had been told of the amazing Barolo’s of this world and while I was doing some online wine shopping I came across Pelassa. Reading a bit of their history, I found a family owned winery with a pretty great website—I thought I would check this bottle of wine out.

I lucked out simply by taking a chance and not reading other people’s reviews. The meal I tried it with was a simple yet delicious plate of pappardelle with homemade bolognese sauce. Just perfect.

Whites:

• Ribolla Gialla by Forchir 
• Ribolla Gialla by Attems

You might think, “Wow, creative this Valter, with his two wines of the same grape variety.” I particularly enjoy this white and could not choose between the two wineries.

I cannot take the credit for discovering Ribolla Gialla. This was all my ex-girlfriend who, while out to dinner one night, asked me a simple question, “Have you ever tried Ribolla Gialla before?” I said, “No, I cannot say I have” and ordered the bottle on the menu. I do not double guess such “signs,” especially when it comes to wines.

Since then, I have ventured to other whites, however, this grape variety remains my favorite. Let’s see if 2016 can change my mind on this one!

Both wineries are found in Friuli Venezia Giulia. Both also produce great wines to accompany to seafood pasta dishes through and, yes, I am going to write it, sushi! This is a recommended grape variety for lovers of white wine and seafood.

Psst, Over Here! I must be honest with you, my favorite white is a Sauvignon Blanc from Giesen Wine Estate in New Zealand but shhhhhh… don’t tell my friends.

Prosecco / Spumante (just don’t call it Champagne!):

• Spumante by Corte dei Papi (Champenoise method) 
• Carpene Malvolti Prosecco (Charmat method) 

So, I will start by saying that I love to eat with sparkling wine. I definitely do not see it only as an aperitif or just mixed to make your Aperol Spritz! Again, in my very humble opinion, the right spumante and prosecco must be followed by Brut/Extra Brut/Brut Nature: the drier the better.

Serve these wines with a cheese platter, a seafood dinner, a roast dinner, or dessert! In my opinion, there are no boundaries for when and where to use a Spumante or a Prosecco—as long as it is dry.

Key information on sparkling whites:

Spumante - is a simple term to for “sparkling white.”

Prosecco - producers must use 100% Glera grapes to call it Prosecco.

Champenoise method - highest quality production and most manual processes, with the secondary fermentation inside the bottle and —voilà—you get fine, elegant bubbles.

Charmat method - less expensive mass-production method where the second fermentation takes place in a pressurized tank, rather than in a bottle. More important, the wine has coarser bubbles. However, it can still taste great when it’s from a right producer.

In short, these are just my personal suggestions of Italian wines to try. Many can be also found overseas, so you can check them out before coming to Italy.

Discover Italy as a local. You will find a whole new world. Experience the real tastes of “Il Bel Paese.” I am always happy to help with any suggestions. Plenty of information can be found at www.touristbychance.com. Also, follow me on Vivino, my trusty wine app!

If you try any of my favorite wine picks, or you tried some Italian wines that you really enjoyed, comment below. If you liked this post, make sure to share it - Justyna and I will thank you for it!

PS: Wines can be delivered “corked,” so if you are not sure, ask your waiter or sommelier to taste it for you. Do not let one bad bottle ruin a wine for you. Also, remember that a certain wine might not be what you like. Be kind in your reviews, especially for family run wineries (they work really hard and with a lot of passion). Do not let your bad experience put other people off. Also, do not always go by what “the best in the biz” suggest. Like I said above,  tastes are subjective and what I like might be very different to what you like, so keep an open mind!

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Rome in 5 Days - Planning Your Time in Rome

Rome is called "The Eternal City" for a reason. Once the center of the Roman Republic, then the Roman Empire, it later became the capital of the Christian world. Today’s Rome, rich in cultural, social, and economic life, remains one of the most popular destinations for tourists from all around the world. There is so much to see and do in Rome, that touring the city may feel overwhelming at times. However, Rome shouldn’t just be about going to museums, but also about walking through small streets and history. Not only the sights are beautiful, but the people are friendly, and the food is delicious. The city of Rome is a wonderful place with magnificent piazzas surrounded by inspiring architecture and art.

Piazza Trinità dei Monti

Day 1: The Most Beautiful Roman Squares

The Spanish Steps

The Piazza di Spagna (the Spanish Square) is one of the best-known monuments of the Roman Baroque style. From here, the Spanish Steps descend toward the Piazza Trinità dei Monti and its magnificent church. According to the World Site Guides, the Spanish Steps have a storied history as a gathering place. The site’s beauty has always attracted artists, musicians, poets, and young women hoping to become their muses. This, in turn, drew rich businessmen and travelers who were looking for a wife or a mistress. The Steps remain to attract people from all around the World till today. Once you get here you just have to sit down and enjoy the atmosphere.

Spanish Square

Many people in the area of Spanish Steps attracts beggars.

The Trevi Fountain

The Spanish Steps are located only a short walk away from the beautiful Piazza Navona (one of the main urban spaces in the historic center of the city), featuring the Baroque Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone and three fountains, including the Trevi Fountain. This fountain is the largest in the city and is considered by many to be one of the world’s most beautiful. No wonder it was featured in movies like  La Dolce Vita and many others. Tourists are likely to believe that if they throw a coin into the fountain, they are guaranteed a return to Rome—the coins are collected every night and given to an Italian charity. What many people don’t know is that the Trevi Fountain is one of the oldest water sources in Rome.

Italian Pizza
On our first day in Rome, we had a taste for a true Italian pizza. We found what we wanted at the Berzitello Pizzeria. The restaurant offers many different meals and types of homemade pizza for both lunch and dinner. Be aware that, during the day, some restaurants sell only pizza al taglio—cooked in a regular oven and sold by the slice. This kind of pizza is great for an on-the-go snack, but if you want a real Italian pizza, you may need to wait until 7 p.m. Luckily to us, at the Berzitello Restaurant you can get tasty, crisp pizza from a wood-fired oven all day long!

Day 2: Ancient Rome

The Colosseum
You can expect a long line to enter the Colosseum even with a Roma Pass (admission from 8:30 a.m. to 6:15 p.m.). If you are visiting during the summer, try to be there as early as possible. There is no shade for those standing in the admissions’ line, so you want to limit wait time to a minimum. While walking through this famous amphitheater, you will be exposed to the sun for much of the time as well—how wonderful its original Roman shades would be! Yes, in ancient times the audience could enjoy shows in the shade of an enormous cloth called the velarium, that had ropes and pulleys which extended or retracted according to the position of the sun.

The Colosseum Arena

The Roman Forum
The Roman Forum—the heart of the ancient city’s public and political life—is situated near the Colosseum. It’s a large area with little shade, so summer months are far too hot to fully appreciate this beautiful place steeped in history.

The Roman Forum

Panoramic views of the Roman Forum

The Piazza Venezia and The Piazza del Campidoglio

If visiting Rome in the summer, I would suggest skipping the walk through the Roman Forum in favor of spending more time at the Piazza del Campidoglio, which offers panoramic views of the Forum. This designed by Michelangelo hilltop square is located atop Capitol Hill and near the Piazza Venezia.

The Piazza Venezia From Far Away (Image source: www.morguefile.com)

Gelateria Brasile

Gelaterie Brasile is located right on the corner of the Piazza Venezia, a place we found entirely by accident. Its homemade gelato was a pleasant, delicious surprise. We didn’t eat at the gelateria’s bar area, walking instead to the nearby Doria Pamphilj Gallery where we sat to enjoy some shade. It was the perfect refreshment after many long hours of sightseeing.

The Pantheon
Situated at the Piazza della Rotonda, the Pantheon is where an eagle seized the dead founder of Rome—Romulus—and took him into the skies to be with the gods. According to romecabs.com, this ancient temple honored pagan gods. Today, this magnificent monument serves as a Christian church and still inspires architects and artists. Due to its beauty, many couples choose the Pantheon for w wedding ceremony. 

Affordable Restaurant near the Pantheon
Our last stop of the day was at the Cul de Sac authentic Italian Restaurant  which offers pizza, pasta, and meat and cheese platters. The air conditioning did little to cool us down, but the ravioli was delicious, and the location was convenient.

Cul de Sac

Day 3: Vatican City

The Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel
Nothing ruins a trip more than failing to plan and, as a result, missing a sold-out attraction. Don’t let that happen to you: If visiting the Vatican, book tickets to the Vatican Museums well ahead of time. While it is possible to buy tickets on site, doing so requires waiting in line—in the full sun—for as much as three hours. Instead, skip the queue and buy tickets online through the Official Vatican Museums website (16,00€ + 4,00€ pre-sales fee). The Vatican Museums house some of the world’s most beautiful and culturally significant art, along with unbelievably beautiful Sistine Chapel—featuring Michelangelo’s frescoes—where conclave gathering to elect popes take place.

View from the Vatican Museum Window

Sistine Chapel

A Secret Passage from the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter’s Basilica
The main entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica is through St. Peter's Square, but there is a secret passage (on the back right site) in the Sistine Chapel through which you can reach St. Peter’s Basilica without standing in line. Technically, this hidden passage is reserved only for licensed tour guides, but we didn’t have any problem using it

The Interior of St. Peter's Basilica

St. Peter’s Basilica and the Dome Climb 

Built in the fifteenth century, St. Peter’s Basilica (free to enter) is one of the largest Renaissance-style churches in the world. The basilica contains many tombs and sculptures, including John Paul II tomb and Michelangelo's Pietà, but to me, the most fascinating feature was the giant dome overhead. The entry to the copula costs either 7€ or 5€, depending on whether you choose to avoid 221 steps with a short elevator ride or climb all 551 steps to the top. Whatever you choose, the view is well worth the effort. However, skip this attraction, if you don’t feel well in small spaces—corridor gets very narrow as you reach to the top. 

Panoramic View of Vatican Gardens Seen from the St. Peters Copula

St. Peter's Square

Day 4: Civita Di Bagnoregio

Rome is such a mesmerizing city that you could spend an entire month there and still not see everything—but don’t forget the many spectacular options outside the city. Easily reached by train are Ostia Antica, Assisi, Castel Gandolfo, and Orvieto. We rented a car at Termini Station (Rome’s central train station) and drove two hours to the less well-known Civita di Bagnoregio.

Civita

This breathtaking medieval town in central Italy is actually two separate towns. Civita lies on a hill and is accessible only by a long bridge that begins at the end of the road leading from neighboring Bagnoregio. Founded by the Etruscans in the sixth century BC, the town was then an important city connected to a network of trade routes. Civita is now considered a dying town as erosion eats away at its edges. However, the town is not abandoned. Depending on your budget, there are many hotels and restaurants from which to choose.

For more information about how to reach the Civita di Bagnoregio by public transportation, or and where to stay and eat there, please see Civita di Bagnoregio by Tourist by Chance.

In Civita, the population of cats outnumbers humans and have become something of an attraction themselves.

An Etruscan tomb turned into a chapel in the Medieval period.

Bridge Connecting Civita and di Bagnoregio

Day 5: Rome at Night 

(Image source: www.morguefile.com)

Trastevere
On our last day, we walked from the Piazza Navona to the Ponte Sisto bridge and to Trastevere, a picturesque medieval area located on the West bank of the Tiber River. The central part of Trastevere is the Piazza di Santa Maria. During the day streets of Trastevere may seem depopulated. It’s best to visit here during the evening when the restaurants and bars are open. Summer nights in Rome are warm, so eating outside is a real pleasure.

Gelateria dei Gracchi
Our favorite part of Trastevere was eating delicious, fresh gelato at Gelateria dei Gracchi—the best seasonal gelato flavors I’ve ever tried.

Ponte Sisto Bridge (Image source: www.pexels.com)

The Colosseum after Dark 

Rome’s atmosphere in the moonlight is incredible. Ancient ruins look even more magical and mysterious at night. My favorite part of our evenings in Rome was walking through the Via dei Fori Imperiali Road that connects Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum. Walking in the glow of the Colosseum while listening to live music and watching street artists was a perfect way to end our trip to Rome.

Good to Know...

*Hotel
While there are many places to stay in Rome, it’s almost impossible to find a nice and affordable hotel in the city center. The truth is that most of the old hotels by Termini Station or near the Colosseum are low quality or overpriced. Many tourists do pay exorbitantly to stay in the ancient part of Rome, but our decision to stay elsewhere worked out well. We found a nice, spacious 4-star hotel with excellent air conditioning and friendly staff in a very good price east of the ancient city—about ten minutes by bus from Termini Station. Our room was pleasant and the bed was comfortable. The bathroom was great—and the hairdryer, incidentally, worked well, indeed!

Adjacent to the hotel is a promenade featuring many restaurants. After a long day of sightseeing, it was convenient to simply step outside for a true Italian meal. The area around the hotel may seem sketchy at first, but we felt perfectly safe there. In a way, it felt calming at the end of a day to leave the busy center of Rome with its tourist hordes and return to the quieter Pigneto and its many traditional small restaurants, markets, and shops. Once an industrial area that was home to the working class, in recent years, the neighborhood has become a trendy nightlife destination for locals, by New Yorkers called "the Williamsburg of Rome."

*Tourist Pass
The Roma Pass (for 36€) gives you three full days of public transportation along with entrance to two major tourist sites of your choice. You can buy this card at most museums, historical sites, and all Tourist Information Points (TIP) located at most major train stations and tourist sites.

The Roma 48H Ticket (12,50€) is a two-day integrated ticket for public transportation only that is valid for forty-eight hours from its first use.

*A great source of tourist information on Rome and Italy
My favorite source of information about Rome is Tourist by Chance. Valter reveals the secrets of Italy that can’t be found in mainstream guidebooks. Be sure to check out his The Eternal City blog post to learn about the many hidden treasures of Rome.

How to Dress in Rome During Summer

Dress Light - It's Hot!

Summer days in Rome tend to be very hot; daytime temperatures in July and August can reach over 100°F (38°C). Even if you are used to high temperatures back home, Rome heat may be worse to deal with because air conditioning in public transportation and many old buildings isn’t that great. Some restaurants don’t even have air conditioning. This means that the less you wear, the better you feel. At the same time, you don’t want to reveal too much because a major part of sightseeing in Rome is visiting churches. That's why, for your summer trip to Rome, you should pack light dresses and skirts instead of tiny shorts and mini skirts. The key to dressing light on hot days without revealing too much is to choose breathable materials like cotton or linen. Another great idea is to carry a light shawl to cover up with if required. A hat, sunglasses, and lots of sunscreen are must-haves when visiting the Eternal City in the summer.

Vatican Dress Code

While covering up in some places is simply respectful, Vatican imposes a special dress code for the Holy City. According to the Vatican Museums' website, “Access to Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, Vatican Gardens and Saint Peter's Basilica is permitted only to visitors dressed appropriately (no sleeveless blouses, no miniskirts, no shorts, no hats allowed).”

Comfortable Footwear Without Sacrificing Style

You will do a lot of walking in Rome, so you will need comfortable walking shoes. Strappy walking sandals are ideal for long walks around the city in summer. Flip-flops or shoes with flat soles will not work, because Roman streets have a lot of uneven bricks, so it is better to choose padded shoes that provide some support.

"When in Rome, Do as The Romans Do”

Italy is often called the fashion capital of the world. Italians, on average, dress very well, but not over the top—I would call it casual chic. When packing for your trip, keep in mind that Rome is a good place to style your outfits a bit. However, if you worry about looking like a tourist, guess what? Italians already know you are a tourist, so wear what you feel best in.